Willow, of the family Salicaceae and genus Salix, is a common species in North America. The Black Willow (Salix nigra) tree, found in the eastern part of the North American continent, is famous for its dark brown, ridged bark. Rich in tannins, salicylic acid, and various salicylates, Salix Nigra Bark Extract is made by an aqueous infusion technique from freshly harvested bark collected in the spring, following time-honored shamanistic traditions. It was used in traditional medicine for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, antimicrobial, and analgesic properties.
Salicylic acid, at use levels in cosmetic formulations of around 0.5% to 1.0%, has been shown to enhance skin cell turnover. After the application of Salix Nigra Bark Extract, cell renewal is accompanied by a general improvement in the appearance of the skin. The smoothing effect results in a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. Salicylic acid is also known for its antimicrobial capabilities – it is used as a remedy for problem skin conditions.
Salicylic acid’s superior exfoliation action is thought to be attributed to its lipid solubility. It concentrates its exfoliation action in the lipid-rich outer layers of the skin, where the skin’s natural rate of exfoliation reduces with aging, causing a buildup of dry, dull skin flakes. However, salicylic acid, a β–hydroxy acid, also exfoliates within the pores which leads to its localizing more deeply in the skin. This could account for its observed higher level of irritation. If a product is thought to be too strong or irritating to the skin, it will not be used as often. Expected results may not be seen if manufacturer-recommended usage is not followed clearly impacting the effectiveness of the product.
In Repeat Insult Patch Tests, Salix Nigra Bark Extract has been found to be non-irritating to the skin even at its use level of 10% as compared to that of 1% synthetic salicylic acid. The incorporation of Black Willow bark extract into a liposome has shown to increase the product’s anti-microbial and exfoliative properties.Salix Nigra Bark Extract is better able to increase the turnover of the stratum corneum and also has more in vitro antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes. Coupled with this increased efficacy, it has less irritation potential than salicylic acid. The EpiDerm and EpiOcular assays made actual comparisons between Salix Nigra Bark Extract and salicylic acid, and the natural extract proved to be much less irritating actually comparable to glycerin.