This group is composed of highly effective skincare ingredients which are derived from diverse natural sources: plants, grains, fungi, and yeast. The majority of carbohydrates incorporated in beauty formulas are glucans, long chains of glucose molecules that are connected together. Being derived from plants or microorganisms these compounds are pretty familiar to our body cells, so they don’t cause any dermal irritation or sensibilization. Some of the glucans are even utilized in the food industry. Obviously, they are safe in concentrations used in cosmetics.
Glucans are a total win-win for all types of complexions. First, these carbohydrates are exceptional moisturizers. Being applied on the top layer of the epidermis they form a delicate layer on it and, thus, hinder water evaporation from the face surface. On the other hand, due to their chemical structure, they have the ability to bond water molecules and keep them inside dermal layers. The double moisturizing effect of these molecules protects skin from dehydration, consecutive dermal destruction, and wrinkle formation.
Next, they are potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents. These carbohydrates efficiently hunt and neutralize free radicals, which are the main cause of collagen quantity drop and wrinkling. Actively penetrating the epidermis and dermis they also stop the harmful cascade of inflammatory processes and prevents degradation of the skin frame.
Also, these compounds are involved in the inhibition of melanin production. In this way, they battle hyperpigmentation, one of the most common problems of aging skin. And this is not the end. Some carbs are incorporated into beauty formulations to serve as prebiotics (food for dermal microflora). Microorganisms are an essential part of our body's uppermost layer and their bioactivity straightforwardly affect skin integrity. This is why microbiome-friendly beauty formulas are one of the trends of 2021.
Taking into account all these impressive benefits of polymeric carbs many famous beauty experts mention glucans as must-have ingredients of result–delivering skincare products.
Bamboo (Bambusa Arundinacea) Powder is an all-natural mechanical exfoliator for facial and body scrubs, the finely milled bamboo powder is rich in essential minerals and silica.
Brestine is a polymer of galactose, mannose, glucose, galacturonic acid, and glucuronic acid. It is produced by marine plankton collected from the Mer d’Iroise of Brest in Bretagne. Once isolated, the micro-organism is cultivated in a bioreactor to produce large amounts of Brestine.
Dehydroxanthan Gum is a dehydrated xanthan gum, an anionic polymer, supplied as an off-white powder. In personal care applications, it is used as a fixative, thickener, gelling agent, and for styling aid.
Dextran is a polysaccharide (polyglucan) from glucose units composed of α-C1-C6 linked chains of different lengths. Dextrans polymer chain length varies from very short (water-soluble) to very long (insoluble).
Dextrin is a degraded starch polysaccharide in which the amylose and amylopectin present in the original starch have been partially hydrolyzed at the 1,4a D and 1,6a D linkages.
Cyclodextrins are a well-known group of natural carbohydrates, which, due to their novel cyclic structure, are able to act as the host in the host-guest complex.
In most personal care emulsions, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate can aid in emulsion stabilization, aesthetics enhancement, and viscosity build. An emulsion containing it will have outstanding stability over a broad temperature range (-30°C up to 50°C).