Carbohydrates

This group is composed of highly effective skincare ingredients which are derived from diverse natural sources: plants, grains, fungi, and yeast. The majority of carbohydrates incorporated in beauty formulas are glucans, long chains of glucose molecules that are connected together. Being derived from plants or microorganisms these compounds are pretty familiar to our body cells, so they don’t cause any dermal irritation or sensibilization. Some of the glucans are even utilized in the food industry. Obviously, they are safe in concentrations used in cosmetics.  

Glucans are a total win-win for all types of complexions. First, these carbohydrates are exceptional moisturizers.  Being applied on the top layer of the epidermis they form a delicate layer on it and, thus, hinder water evaporation from the face surface. On the other hand, due to their chemical structure, they have the ability to bond water molecules and keep them inside dermal layers. The double moisturizing effect of these molecules protects skin from dehydration, consecutive dermal destruction, and wrinkle formation.  

Next, they are potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents. These carbohydrates efficiently hunt and neutralize free radicals, which are the main cause of collagen quantity drop and wrinkling. Actively penetrating the epidermis and dermis they also stop the harmful cascade of inflammatory processes and prevents degradation of the skin frame.  

Also, these compounds are involved in the inhibition of melanin production. In this way, they battle hyperpigmentation, one of the most common problems of aging skin. And this is not the end. Some carbs are incorporated into beauty formulations to serve as prebiotics (food for dermal microflora). Microorganisms are an essential part of our body's uppermost layer and their bioactivity straightforwardly affect skin integrity. This is why microbiome-friendly beauty formulas are one of the trends of 2021.  

Taking into account all these impressive benefits of polymeric carbs many famous beauty experts mention glucans as must-have ingredients of result–delivering skincare products. 

Acacia Senegal
Topically, it has been used in lotions as a soothing agent, oil-in-water emulsifier, and as astringent. Acacia Senegal gum is used externally to cover inflamed surfaces like bums or nodular leprosy.
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Thanks to the specificity of its inter-glycosidic bonds, Alpha-Glucan is a selective substrate for the nutrition and development of the skin's saprophytic (beneficial) flora to the detriment of undesirable opportunists flora (pathogenic or not) ready to invade the skin at the slightest sign of imbalance.
Thanks to cosmetogenomics, Aquaxyl™ makes us travel inside the heart of the cell to unveil the secrets of a well-moistured skin. Water, lipids, and proteins work together to reinforce the natural dehydration shield.
Arabinogalactan (Galactoarabinan)
It is a prebiotic balancing skin microbiota. Studies showed that Galactoarabinan stimulates dermal fibroblast activity and proliferation enhancing collagen and elastin fibers production.
Bamboo

Bamboo (Bambusa Arundinacea) Powder is an all-natural mechanical exfoliator for facial and body scrubs, the finely milled bamboo powder is rich in essential minerals and silica.

Bioecolia is an alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, obtained from sucrose and maltose (natural sugars) via enzymatic synthesis.

Biosaccharide Gum-1 is an anionic biotechnological polysaccharide obtained by a bacterial fermentation process and is accepted for organic cosmetics. It is a moisturizing, soothing, anti-aging, and hair-sheathing cosmetic active ingredient providing a soft touch to formulations.

Our organism is controlled by a communication network that maintains physiological balance. This communication is a dynamic relationship maintained between a transmitter and a receiver through messages carried from a specific channel.

Plankton Extract

Brestine is a polymer of galactose, mannose, glucose, galacturonic acid, and glucuronic acid. It is produced by marine plankton collected from the Mer d’Iroise of Brest in Bretagne. Once isolated, the micro-organism is cultivated in a bioreactor to produce large amounts of Brestine.

Difructose anhydride
Caramel is mainly used as a water-soluble pigment (colorant) in skin care products, but it has several beneficial actions identical to mono- and poly-saccharides.
Cellulose
Cellulose is the primary component of green plants. It is an organic polysaccharide (complex carbohydrate) derived from beta-glucose and is used in conjunction with a marine focus as a natural exfoliating agent.
Ceratonia Siliqua

Ceratonia Siliqua (Locust Bean) Gum is a highly purified fraction of branched galactomannan saccharide polymers. Its aqueous solution is a clear to slightly opalescent, colorless, viscous liquid known under the trade name Phytaluronate®.

Multiple studies demonstrate that CM-Glucan is an effective agent in cosmetic and dermatological formulations, with potent antioxidant, protective, and cell growth-promoting effects.
CM-Glucan Forte is a special beta-glucan extracted from baker’s yeast (magnesium carboxymethyl beta-glucan). This single-substance ingredient is designed to balance the immune system of the skin, soothe irritation and fortify the natural barrier of the skin.

Dehydroxanthan Gum is a dehydrated xanthan gum, an anionic polymer, supplied as an off-white powder. In personal care applications, it is used as a fixative, thickener, gelling agent, and for styling aid.

Dextran schematic

Dextran is a polysaccharide (polyglucan) from glucose units composed of α-C1-C6 linked chains of different lengths. Dextrans polymer chain length varies from very short (water-soluble) to very long (insoluble).

Dextrin

Dextrin is a degraded starch polysaccharide in which the amylose and amylopectin present in the original starch have been partially hydrolyzed at the 1,4a D and 1,6a D linkages.

1,3-dihydroxy-2-propanone

Dihydroxyacetone (1,3-Dihydroxy-2-Propanone) is a simple saccharide used in self-tanning preparations. It is a white powder with a characteristic odor, readily soluble in water and mixtures of water and ethanol.

Erythrulose

Erythrulose is a unique four-carbon ketone sugar (ketotetrose) produced via biotechnology. Its aqueous solution is a clear, yellow, highly viscous liquid.

Fruit Extract Complex is a hydroglycolic blend of peach leaves, apples, and raspberries used to fight against the aging process.
A perfectly balanced complex of precursors and activator of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) production. GAGs-boost provides building blocks (Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate and Sodium Glucuronate) for glycosaminoglycans synthesis.
Galactose
Galactose is used in cosmetics for tissue repair, as an anti-inflammatory ingredient, and moisturizer that increases water retainment of the skin.
Glucomannan
Glucomannan is a polymer of polysaccharides that form a film on the skin, reducing transdermal water loss. It also enhances product stability and shelf life.
Glucose
Like other sugars, glucose also captures water molecules enhancing moisture-binging capacity and maintaining skin hydration. In addition, proliferated skin cells like keratinocytes and fibroblasts use it as a fuel converting it into ATP that energizes and stimulates their functions.
Thanks to its ability to form an ultra-strong matrix (network) on the skin surface, Glycofilm provides a protective shield like a second skin or vail that guards the skin against physical, chemical invasions, and other environmental damaging factors.
Honey
Recent scientific evidence indicates that honey is also a potent would healer—an excellent antibacterial agent and humectant.

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate is a modified poly-glucose matrix that is used to encapsulate active and non-active cosmetic ingredients. This method of encapsulation protects the components during vigorous heating allowing the products to be prepared as anhydrous powders.

Hydrolyzed Beta-Glucan is a mixture of oligosaccharides, a high-efficiency ingredient with a controlled molecular weight of between 1 and 15 kilodaltons. It is a colorless to pale yellow liquid composed of glucose and the somewhat rarer sugar talose.

Avena sativa - green oats
Oats are an excellent source of manganese and selenium – which may assist in building strong bones and promoting a healthier immune system; phosphorous; B Group Vitamins; magnesium; zinc, and dietary fiber.
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Cyclodextrins are a well-known group of natural carbohydrates, which, due to their novel cyclic structure, are able to act as the host in the host-guest complex.