Engineers first worked on a combination of several plant waxes and then studied which sensory characteristics each wax could bring to the final texture or what type of chemical modifications could help create the desired texture. The sensory analysis helped determine which wax they would use to meet their objective:
- Rice bran: its perfectly defined composition and hardness contribute to the final powdery touch
- Candelilla: Its thickening power adds richness to the formulas, and its ability to retain water is also a key element of an active texture.
- Jojoba: a unique liquid wax, it allows easy spreading and ensures softness
Bringing texture and stability to a cosmetic formulation through plant waxes has been the main challenge in the development of this new emulsifier. In order to ease the use of the plant waxes in formulation, Gattefossé branched each plant wax with polyglycerol-3, using an esterification reaction.
This combination has produced an ingredient with a unique butter consistency. To guarantee texture, emulsification, and stability, Gattefossé’s Oleochemistry engineers complemented the wax derivative with Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate.
Thanks to its unique composition, this wax-derived emulsifier enhances the moisturizing potential of formulas by means of a dual effect:- the moisturizing effect of the SSL component,
- the anti-dehydration protection of the wax derivative.
This specific structure leads to Emulium® Kappa and is characterized by a very unique “cushion effect” texture. This O/W emulsifier, stable under heat, with substantiated efficacy as an active texture offers a unique sensorial identity, comparable to that of silicone elastomers.
Active ingredients (or INCI)
Related ingredients
