Isostearyl Lactate is an oil-soluble, liquid ester. It is a clear yellow liquid that is especially lubricious and silky to the touch. It is miscible with natural and mineral oils and volatile silicones, dispersible with propylene glycol, and insoluble in water and ethanol.
Being an alpha-hydroxy acid derivative, Isostearyl Lactate lends moisturization and softness to the skin, enriching and enhancing formulations designed for application to the body and resulting in a pleasant after-feel. It provides moisturization through a semi-occlusive barrier effect.
In addition, the skin’s own natural esterases break down Isostearyl Lactate, producing lactic acid (AHA) and ensuring its slow release. These are enzymes found in the epidermis that can hydrolyze esters and, in the case of Lactate esters, free up lactic acid so it may perform its exfoliating effect.
In its unhydrolyzed form, Isostearyl Lactate functions as an emollient and humectant because it decreases the rate of transepidermal water loss through occlusion and binds water from the atmosphere and lower, more hydrated layers of the epidermis through hydrogen bonding with its free hydroxyl group. It can also be used as a sesame oil replacement. It is a safe ingredient that is non-irritating to the skin and eyes.