Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is the tetra-ester of l-ascorbic acid and 2-hexadecenoic acid, which means that Vitamin C conjugated (esterized) with four lipophilic parts of the 2-hexadecenoic version of isopalmitic acid (an isomer of palmitic acid), which makes it very stable in formulations and gives the ability to penetrate through the lipid barrier of the skin.
Thanks to its lipophilic (oil-soluble) property, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate can be easily incorporated into oil-based applications, making the entire formula even more effective as it can overcome epidermis (the uppermost layer of the skin) and rich to dermis a deeper layer of the skin. In the dermis, it falls apart under the influence of enzymes, delivering necessary ascorbic acid quantities.
Effects on the skin are pretty similar to other Vitamin C derivatives, including stimulation of collagen production, protection from free radicals (antioxidants), and inhibition of melanogenesis (skin brightening). Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate promotes cellular functions, protects cell membranes and DNA from reactive species, and firms the skin; thus, it is a perfect ingredient for anti-aging preparations.
It inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme involved in melanin pigment production, so Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate can be used as a skin-whitening agent that brightens the skin, fights against dark spots and discolorations, and makes the tone more even. It is frequently used in sun care products, clarifying and moisturizing creams, afterbath oils, etc.