Granlipid SBR

Functions
Regeneration booster
Barrier enhancer
Antioxidant
Moisturizer

Granlipid SBR is a highly purified and fractionated mix of partially hydrogenated oils isolated from wheat. This extract is rich in high molecular weight straight-chain, branched-chain, and cyclic hydrocarbons. It also contains Phyto-Sphingolipids which are highly active in enhancing skin barrier functions.

Many ingredients can provide temporary relief of dry skin by acting as humectants, emollients, or occlusive agents. Still, few materials can actually repair the skin water barrier to provide immediate relief of the symptoms of dry skin yet over time actually cure dry skin. The glycolipids and natural oils found in Granlipid SBR do this and in a way totally natural to the skin. These high molecular weight hydrogenated oils also act as an excellent delivery system, facilitating the absorption of Glycolipids and sphingolipids into the skin.

While Phyto-Sphingolipids are extremely costly for cosmetic use, Granlipid SBR offers an economical source of Phyto-Sphingolipids, which have been shown to be highly effective in relieving dry skin and repairing skin barrier damage.

Granlipid SBR resists the auto-oxidation process (rancidity) frequently associated with cosmetic oils. Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) reveals that Granlipid SBR remains unchanged at a temperature as high as 200°C, while a commonly used cosmetic oil, mineral oil, undergoes an exothermic oxidation.

Active ingredients (or INCI)

Hordeum Distichon Extravt

Efficacy Testing

1. Accumulation In The Stratum Corneum

Granlipid SBR at 10% was suspended in a simple vehicle (carbopol) with no other lipids. The test material was applied daily to the lower legs of volunteers twice a day for two weeks. At the end of the study, shave biopsies of the stratum corneum and outer epidermis were obtained. The biopsies were stained neutral red and sectioned via traditional procedures. Sections were examined and staining was quantified via image analysis.

The results indicated that after two weeks of treatment with Granlipid SBR marked accumulation of lipid material was observed in the stratum corneum, resulting in an increase of 98% in the absorption of neutral red.

Moreover, when compared to the number of cells removable by the detergent scrub technique before and after 2 weeks of treatment, a 78% decrease in cell number was observed after treatment with Granlipid SBR. This is consistent with a better organized and more intact stratum corneum.

2. Effect On 'Biophysical Properties of the Skin

The ability of Granlipid SBR to relieve dry skin and improve the overall skin condition was tested in several pilot studies. In these studies, the use of 10% Granlipid SBR in a carbopol vehicle produced the following results.

a. Skin Cell Renewal

Granlipid SBR improved cell renewal rate by 20% (Figure 1) This effect is most likely due to the presence of glycolipids, which have been shown to improve cell renewal and increase cellular metabolism and proliferation. Although the increase observed is not as high as those seen with AHA's, the stimulation observed is significant and should result in long-term improvements in the skin condition.

b. Short-term Skin Hydration

Utilizing the gas-bearing electro dynamometer, we observed that with a single application Granlipid SBR (3%) improved skin hydration for more than 12 hours. This indicates that as well as providing longer-term benefits Granlipid SBR will improve immediate product performance and provide all-day moisturizing effects.

c. Longer-Term Skin Hydration

After two weeks of treatment, a comparison of the changes in the dynamic spring rates (gas-bearing electrodynameter measure of skin flexibility) with other ingredients showed that Granlipid SBR induced a significant increase in hydration. This increase was more significant than those seen with mineral oil and squalane, two very effective emollients.

Finally in the same clinical study after 4 weeks, subjects utilizing Granlipid SBR (Figure 2) demonstrated an increase in skin dryness of 55% (a change of clinical grade from 7.8 to 3.5) when compared to carbopol vehicle alone. This was also more effective than other cosmetic ingredients.

Finally in this same study computer image analysis of skin replicas taken around the eye area of test subjects revealed a significant reduction (-31%) of wrinkles and fine lines after 4 weeks of treatment. This is consistent with more than simply moisturizing the skin and reflects the skin's renewal activity due to Granlipid SBR.

Stability

Granlipid SBR resists the auto-oxidation process (rancidity) frequently associated with cosmetic oils. Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) reveals that Granlipid SBR remains unchanged at a temperature as high as 200° C, while a commonly used cosmetic oil, mineral oil, undergoes an exothermic oxidation.

Applications

Granlipid SBR can be used as a functional ingredient in any skin or hair care formulation. It has the ability to restore and repair the epidermal water barrier.

Granlipid SBR is of plant origin and will serve as an innovative and special ingredient in cosmetic formulations.

Because of its moderate cost and high efficacy, Granlipid SBR is an ideal replacement for traditional ingredients such as squalane and vegetable oils.