Unisooth EG-28

Dark circles and bags are reported to be one of the biggest concerns for consumers all over the world and more precisely- ly for the Asiatic population (Mintel data), right after wrinkles. Both dark circles and under-eye puffiness are associated with lower self-esteem and are reported to have sometimes social impact, as people believe that dark circles are associated with a bad quality of life.

Unisooth EG-28 is an active ingredient complex that is composed of 6mM of gallic acid glucoside, 323μM of epigallocatechin-glucoside, and 117 mM propyl gallate. Gallic acid glucoside is the glycosylated form of gallic acid coming from oak leaves and epigallocatechin-glucoside is the glycosylated form of epigallocatechin gallate originating from green tea.

Up to now, the toolbox of formulators has been limited to a few ingredients (caffeine, esculin) or pigments to address this skin issue. By combining three derivatives of gallic acid (gallic acid glucoside, epigallocatechin glucoside, and propyl gallate) in Unisooth EG-28, which are stabilized forms of gallic acid, it has been possible to obtain significant improvement in dark circles and puffiness in human volunteers in 15 to 30 days.

Unisooth EG-28 decreases the transcriptional activation of inflammatory markers (IL 8, CXCL-1) known to be under the control of NF-gB nuclear factor after its nuclear translocation. This anti-inflammatory-like activity was also detected through the stimulation of the transcription of two important markers HMOX-1 and VEGFR3 known for their anti-inflammatory properties.

The reduction of the volume of the bags is expected to be mediated through the activation of the VEGFR3 factor by the Unisooth EG-28, which leads to the inhibition of the inflammatory cascade. Meanwhile, the activation of the transcription rate of VEGFR3 can explain the action on the oedematous bags visible under the eyes by the improvement of draining properties of lymphatic vessels, which are under the VEGFR3 control.