MelinOIL™

Functions
Melanogenic
Antioxidant
Soothing

MelinOIL™ is an oil-soluble version of a-MSH (a-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone) biomimetic peptide (Acetyl Hexapeptide-1) developed to promote the natural skin defense system against the sun and UV-induced damage, protecting cells and limiting premature photoaging. It is a patented peptide microemulsified in an oil phase by a calibrated synergistic selection of phospholipids. The ultra-small droplet size (< 100 nm) and the specific ratio of water/oil/phospholipids lead to a transparent oil allowing its introduction in precise oil-based products such as sun care oils and anti-aging oil serums. Furthermore, MelinOIL™ can also be in oil-in-water and water-in-oil sun care and anti-aging emulsions, thus showing versatility.

By mimicking a-MSH sequence and activity, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 can bind special receptor MC1-R (MelanoCortin 1 Receptor) on both keratinocytes and melanocytes. It thus stimulates the natural cell photoprotection process to preserve skin health after repeated sun exposure, leaving a triple effect:

  1. Stimulates melanin production
    Pigmentation is an essential skin protection mechanism against sun damage. Due to its capacity to absorb UV, melanin is considered a natural cellular sunscreen, neutralizing the powerful rays penetrating the skin before they reach the DNA. The activation of MC1-R on melanocytes stimulates the tyrosinase activity (+83%) and then the melanin production by melanocytes (+95%). A better formation of dendrites facilitates melanin transfer into keratinocytes. The higher melanin content in the epidermis visibly increases the skin pigmentation (+54%), thus offering better internal skin protection against the harmful effects of UV.
  2. Protects DNA
    UV rays and UV-induced free radicals are significant factors for skin cell DNA damage and are recognized as one of the most critical causes of skin aging. The activation of MC1-R on keratinocytes stimulates DNA protection and repair mechanisms, limiting photoaging caused by sun overexposure.
  3. Sooting effect
    The inflammation produced by exposure to UV light has been well described. Generations of inflammatory mediators such as cytokines and prostaglandins lead to visible manifestations such as redness, sunburns, and swelling. The activation of MC1-R on keratinocytes triggers an anti-inflammatory process proven by a decrease in inflammatory mediators such as IL-1a, IL-8, and PGE2. The skin is then significantly protected from the appearance of UV-induced erythema. In addition, apparent delay in the formation of sun-induced redness attests that skin is less sensitive to UV inflammation.

Specially designed for oil-based formulas, MelinOIL™ is the perfect ingredient to complement sunscreens and protect skin from photoaging.

Active ingredients (or INCI)

Ingredient products

Preparation U.V.
Biologique Recherche

Related ingredients

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is a fantastic, super effective, naturally derived tetrapeptide that helps reduce the look of puffy eye bags and dark circles under the eyes and helps prevent them from reappearing.
Alistin®
Alistin®
Alistin® (Decarboxy Carnosine) is a synthetic antiaging pseudodipeptide with high stability and resistance to enzymatic hydrolysis, that cell membranes oxidative stress and dermal fiber from cross-linking.
Apple extract
Apple extract
The Apple awakens energies and is said to have an exceptionally activating effect on the body. The scent contributes to an extremely refreshing and stimulating sensation.
AquaCacteen™
AquaCacteen™
AquaCacteen™ is a botanical complex based on the Barbary fig stem extract and designed to soothe and calm irritated skin, protect from environmental stress factors, and deeply hydrate with long-lasting effects.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ascorbyl palmitate is the ester of L-ascorbic and palmitic acids. It's a fat- and water-soluble (amphipathic) antioxidant that has an increased shelf life thus used in many formulations.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Like other forms of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate helps prevent cellular aging by inhibiting the cross-linking of collagen, oxidation of proteins, and lipid peroxidation.
Astragalus root extract
Astragalus root extract
This critical herb has immune-enhancing, antibacterial, antibiotic, and anti-viral properties and contains antioxidants, which protect our cells against free radical damage.
Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is a derivative from the psoralea corylifolia plant used in oriental medicine. The first natural alternative to retinol.
Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) extract
Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) extract
Barley contains a large variety of vitamins, including beta carotene (provitamin A), thiamine (vitamin B1), riboflavin (B2), pyridoxine (B6), cobalamins (B12), pantothenic acid (B5), and folic acid (B₉), which all play an essential role in dermal cells metabolism and necessary for normal functioning.
Beeswax
Beeswax
The honeybee produces an organic skincare ingredient, beeswax, which contains a mixture of fatty acids and esters. It is used in a range of organic skincare products as a thickener and emulsifier.
Beta-Carotene
Beta-Carotene
This carotenoid is found primarily in carrots and is used to give personal care products a yellow to orange-red color. The body converts beta-carotene into vitamin A.
BHT
BHT
BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) is an antioxidant, white crystalline powder that will delay the rancidity of oils and fats in food and personal care applications.