MelinOIL™ is an oil-soluble version of a-MSH (a-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone) biomimetic peptide (Acetyl Hexapeptide-1) developed to promote the natural skin defense system against the sun and UV-induced damage, protecting cells and limiting premature photoaging. It is a patented peptide microemulsified in an oil phase by a calibrated synergistic selection of phospholipids. The ultra-small droplet size (< 100 nm) and the specific ratio of water/oil/phospholipids lead to a transparent oil allowing its introduction in precise oil-based products such as sun care oils and anti-aging oil serums. Furthermore, MelinOIL™ can also be in oil-in-water and water-in-oil sun care and anti-aging emulsions, thus showing versatility.

By mimicking a-MSH sequence and activity, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 can bind special receptor MC1-R (MelanoCortin 1 Receptor) on both keratinocytes and melanocytes. It thus stimulates the natural cell photoprotection process to preserve skin health after repeated sun exposure, leaving a triple effect:

  1. Stimulates melanin production
    Pigmentation is an essential skin protection mechanism against sun damage. Due to its capacity to absorb UV, melanin is considered a natural cellular sunscreen, neutralizing the powerful rays penetrating the skin before they reach the DNA. The activation of MC1-R on melanocytes stimulates the tyrosinase activity (+83%) and then the melanin production by melanocytes (+95%). A better formation of dendrites facilitates melanin transfer into keratinocytes. The higher melanin content in the epidermis visibly increases the skin pigmentation (+54%), thus offering better internal skin protection against the harmful effects of UV.
  2. Protects DNA
    UV rays and UV-induced free radicals are significant factors for skin cell DNA damage and are recognized as one of the most critical causes of skin aging. The activation of MC1-R on keratinocytes stimulates DNA protection and repair mechanisms, limiting photoaging caused by sun overexposure.
  3. Sooting effect
    The inflammation produced by exposure to UV light has been well described. Generations of inflammatory mediators such as cytokines and prostaglandins lead to visible manifestations such as redness, sunburns, and swelling. The activation of MC1-R on keratinocytes triggers an anti-inflammatory process proven by a decrease in inflammatory mediators such as IL-1a, IL-8, and PGE2. The skin is then significantly protected from the appearance of UV-induced erythema. In addition, apparent delay in the formation of sun-induced redness attests that skin is less sensitive to UV inflammation.

Specially designed for oil-based formulas, MelinOIL™ is the perfect ingredient to complement sunscreens and protect skin from photoaging.

Ingredient products

Biologique Recherche