Brookosome® TA (Tanning Accelerator)

Natural tanning of the skin occurs due to UV exposure. Ultra-violet rays increase melanin production in the skin giving it color. Melanin is the skin's natural pigment and defense system. Either reducing skin's resistance to UV rays (which can be difficult) or increasing its potential to produce melanin can increase the degree of tanning.

Tyrosinase is the enzyme responsible for converting the amino acid tyrosine to Dopa and initiating the biosynthesis of melanin. When tyrosine is applied topically to the skin, an extra reserve is stored to help drive melanin synthesis in the epidermis helping to increase and prolong the tanning process. Tyrosine must be applied in a bioavailable form in order for it to function as a tan activator. When applied to the skin, the tyrosine is released into the epidermal layers from the Brookosome® TA where it can augment the activity of tyrosine already present in the skin. The tyrosine derivative becomes active upon its oxidation by cutaneous enzymes, increasing melanin production and enhancing the tanning process.

The addition of a bioavailable form of zinc to Brookosome® TA enhances the effects of tanning on the skin. Zinc is an important nutrient necessary for the healing and development of new cells. The ion is a key part in a cofactor to many enzymes such as DNA and RNA polymerases and in other ferments involved in protein synthesis, and in carbonic acid anhydrase during the conversion of carbonic acid to carbon dioxide and water. It is involved in the biochemical reactions of the extracellular matrix. For instance, zinc plays a key role in the turnover of the dermis, including a critical role in the healing process and NMF production. Deficiencies may result in prolonged wound healing, stretch marks, white spots on the nails, and susceptibility to infections. Zinc also plays a key structural role in Superoxide Dismutase, a key cellular antioxidant, which is a part of the cell's natural defense system.

Feeding yeast cells nutrient media high in levels of zinc allows manufacturers to take advantage of the yeast cells' natural metabolic processes. The zinc is bound to the cellular glycoproteins within the yeast cell. The extract of these yeast cells provides the mineral in a "bioavailable" form, a state that has been shown to enhance the delivery of minerals to the skin. The yeast-glycopeptide mineral complex represents an ideal way to incorporate important elements into formulations for topical applications.

Brookosome® TA has been developed as a bioavailable source of zinc and tyrosine to enhance skin tanning. Natural pigmentation and healthy-looking skin can be optimized by the presence of these actives. The addition of these active components to a liposome or Brookosome® enhances their ability to penetrate the skin and protects the actives in a formulation.