Palmitoyl Dipeptide-52 is a simple lipopeptide with sequence Pal-Pro-Pro known under the trade name Silverfree™ developed by Sederma. It is a pro-pigmenting peptide that stimulates the repigmentation of hair.
According to Sederma's patent, the most important part of the molecule is the amino acid Proline, that provides a specific angeled shape and strong geometrical construct which is essential for hair follicle melanocyte stimulation. Their tests with more flexible amino acids like glycine failed pro-pigmenting action. So, the structure of Dipeptide-52 containing two Proline amino acids is crucial for peptide activity.
In addition, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-52 exhibits a significant antioxidant effect protecting follicle cells from oxidative stress and damage. This property enhances the entire efficiency of this ingredient and enables a long-lasting hair pigmentation effect.
During clinical tests with a preparation containing 1.5% Palmitoyl Dipeptide-52 reduced white hair appearance from 32.4 to 86%. The original hair color recovered from 27.4% up to 385%.