Aqualance™ has been developed to support normal cell osmoprotectant strategy and ensure optimal water balance in the skin. An estuary is a meeting point between salt water and fresh water, a natural crossroads of a huge variety of fauna and flora beings. Nature has developed strategies of protection for its survival against heat, dryness, salinity, etc. So every 6 hours, the organisms living in estuaries adjust their metabolism to the changing salinity: 35‰ in seawater compared to 0.16 ‰ in freshwater.
As for the estuary flora, in the skin, maintenance of the cellular water content is a key factor in cell functionality. The skin also undergoes osmotic shocks with the desiccation of the upper layers (heat, cold, wind, detergents, UV irradiation...). That's why Sederma launches a new hydrating ingredient Aqualance™ which contains an osmotic module to mimic estuary flora, and particularly that of the microalgae Platymonas subcordiformis.
In vitro studies showed that Aqualance™ improves the skin water holding capacity and provides the cells with a strong resistance to desiccation and both hypo- and hypertonic shocks. Aqualance™ also helps keratinocytes, by providing osmoprotection, to resist UV-induced apoptosis. A clinical study was carried out on a total of 20 women (23-67 years old), with twice-daily application of 3% Aqualance™ against a placebo on the legs. After 24h and 8 days, measurements of skin moisture were done with Corneometer® (Courage&Kazaka), MoistureMeter-D™ (Delfin), and near infra-red.
The three evaluations showed that the kinetics of hydration in the different parts of the skin are complementary to the skin’s water gradient. The level of water stabilizes after 1h in the stratum corneum, after 2h in the epidermis, and after 24h deeper in the skin. Moreover, it is possible to increase the water level by more than 30% in the upper layers to 13% deeper in the skin after 24 hours. Aqualance™ can recreate the pool of water to counterbalance the drying effect of TEWL and maintain the optimal cellular water content.