Corn starch is a vegetable polymer used for decades in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. In its regular unmodified form, corn starch does not always provide desired technical properties and can therefore undergo modification or derivatization that shapes it according to needs.
Carbohydrates
This group is composed of highly effective skincare ingredients which are derived from diverse natural sources: plants, grains, fungi, and yeast. The majority of carbohydrates incorporated in beauty formulas are glucans, long chains of glucose molecules that are connected together. Being derived from plants or microorganisms these compounds are pretty familiar to our body cells, so they don’t cause any dermal irritation or sensibilization. Some of the glucans are even utilized in the food industry. Obviously, they are safe in concentrations used in cosmetics.
Glucans are a total win-win for all types of complexions. First, these carbohydrates are exceptional moisturizers. Being applied on the top layer of the epidermis they form a delicate layer on it and, thus, hinder water evaporation from the face surface. On the other hand, due to their chemical structure, they have the ability to bond water molecules and keep them inside dermal layers. The double moisturizing effect of these molecules protects skin from dehydration, consecutive dermal destruction, and wrinkle formation.
Next, they are potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents. These carbohydrates efficiently hunt and neutralize free radicals, which are the main cause of collagen quantity drop and wrinkling. Actively penetrating the epidermis and dermis they also stop the harmful cascade of inflammatory processes and prevents degradation of the skin frame.
Also, these compounds are involved in the inhibition of melanin production. In this way, they battle hyperpigmentation, one of the most common problems of aging skin. And this is not the end. Some carbs are incorporated into beauty formulations to serve as prebiotics (food for dermal microflora). Microorganisms are an essential part of our body's uppermost layer and their bioactivity straightforwardly affect skin integrity. This is why microbiome-friendly beauty formulas are one of the trends of 2021.
Taking into account all these impressive benefits of polymeric carbs many famous beauty experts mention glucans as must-have ingredients of result–delivering skincare products.
Inositol is a powerful skin moisturizer and a substance that optimizes the skin's water-lipid barrier. Inositol molecules are incorporated into membrane lipids, enhancing the natural defenses of the skin.
Inulin is an indigestible fiber that promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria on the skin surface. Thus, they have positive health effects and are even implicated in disease prevention (prebiotic effects).
Lactose is good probiotic as it's a nutrient for Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria. Meanwhile, the majority of harmful bacteria and yeast unable to hydrolyze (into galactose and glucose) and consume it. It changes and improves skin microbiota balance providing a healthy, youthful, and refreshed appearance.
Lipomoist-2036 is a complex that forms a monolayer molecular film that contains a dispersion of heteropolysaccharides, amino acids, and plant-derived peptides obtained by the microfluidization method under very high pressure.
LP FOS complex improves the balance of the skin’s micro-flora for an optimal protection barrier.
Maltodextrin is a generalized name for polysaccharides composed of short-to-medium long chains of glucose units (from 3 to 20 units, linked primarily by α-1–4 bonds) produced from starch.
Mannitol has hydrating and antioxidant properties that make it an ideal ingredient for use in skincare formulations.
Mannose is a simple monosaccharide sugar, a stereoisomer of glucose found in many plants and the human body. It plays an essential role in biological processes in the human body, particularly in protein glycosylation.
MG 60 Skin Softener reduces irritation, provides skin protection and counteracts inflammation.
Microcrystalline cellulose is purified, isolated colloidal crystalline cellulose derived from fibrous plants. It is a white, free-flowing powder, odorless, and insoluble in water.
Pentavitin® is a complex of vegetable carbohydrates capable of binding and retaining moisture in the skin for a long time. Vegetable carbohydrates are very similar in composition to carbohydrates in the upper layer of the epidermis.
Potato Starch Modified is an off-white powder used as a thickener or emulsion stabilizer in skin care applications. It delivers a soft and velvety after-feel. The starch functions at low pH to provide stable viscosity and pH over time, both at ambient and accelerated aging conditions.
Prebiulin is a natural prebiotic that balances the skin micro-flora by assisting to restore due to any disruptions.
Pullulan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide produced by fermentation providing an instant lifting-tightening effect and smoother texture to the skin.
The discovery of Rhizobian gum comes from agronomical research and the study of microorganisms living in the soil in symbiosis with plants. A specific microorganism identified as a Rhizobium bacterium lives in contact with the roots of sunflowers.
The fundamental building block of the ATP molecule, D-Ribose, induces the production of new energy units (ATP) to restore the energetic pool and increases skin cell respiration to recover an optimal cellular metabolism.
Saccharide Isomerate increases the water-binding capacity of the stratum corneum; adheres to the keratin of the horny layer; reduces dryness and irritation caused by Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs).
Siligel is an eco-friendly green prepared gelling complex that assists to reduce transepidermal water loss to keep skin moisturized.
Due to age and environmental factors such as UV radiation, the skin loses its ability to protect itself against pollution and microorganisms. Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan is a baker's yeast polysaccharide derivative that enhances the skin defense system.
It is a multifunctional ingredient derived from natural raw materials for skin care applications valued for its moisturizing, softening, and conditioning effects on the skin.
Nature offers us innumerable varieties of carbohydrates, many of which are easily taken for granted. Simple sugars like glucose and mannose are among the most recognizable. Simple sugars can bind together into larger chains of sugars called polysaccharides.
This crystalline disaccharide is obtained from sugar cane, sugar beet, and sorghum and forms the greater part of maple sugar.
A plant-based probiotic and sugar combined to create a microbiotic solution for sensitive skin.
Syner-GX is a mixture of guar gum and xanthan gum. The 100% natural thickener stabilizes formulations and imparts the skin a soft and gentle feel. A study shows that this complex possesses better thickening properties than xanthan gum or guar gum alone.
Tapioca starch is a naturally derived, unique water-soluble ingredient that can absorb oils and fragrances in a powder form but readily disperses them in warm water.
Galactomannans from Caesalpinia Spinosa, in particular, have a 3:1 mannose:galactose ratio (Man:Gal) and relatively regular distribution of galactose along the main chain.
Vitamin C Booster is a plant derived sugar, which transfers fatty acids into the mitochondria to help use more oxygen efficiently.
Walnut (Juglans Mandshurica) shell powder is an abrasive used in scrub products. Juglans Mandshurica shells are prepared by the controlled grinding of the shells of walnuts.
Xanthan gum is a natural carbohydrate gum produced by a yeast-like micro-organism. It has soothing properties and is used as an emulsifier and thickener to help with the consistency and stability of creams.