Alpha-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormone), is best known as a major factor in the regulation of pigmentation through its unique mechanism. Alpha-MSH is involved in the control of tyrosinase activity, melanin synthesis, and melanosome transfer.
Amino acids
Amino acids are organic compounds produced from the amine and carboxylic acid functional group. The key elements of amino acids are carbon, oxygen, nitrogen, and hydrogen. About 500 amino acids can be classified in six main ways: aliphatic, hydroxic, aromatic, basic, and acidic, plus their amide. Further, other non-protein amino acids act as metabolic intermediates.
Amino acids are useful not only in human nutrition but also in the cosmetic industry. In human nutrition, amino acids are used to synthesize proteins and additional biomolecules; thus, they are found in the human body. These compounds are the building blocks our organism uses to build its proteins, enzymes, and peptides.
Famous skin proteins collagen, elastin, and keratin are also made of amino acids. In addition, they are oxidized to urea and carbon dioxide to generate energy.
However, amino acids' function is not limited to building dermal proteins. They are also involved in regulating a large number of processes associated with skin healing, moisture retention (NMFs), and protection from UV irradiation. Due to their comprehensive beneficial features, safety, and insensibility, amino acids are common ingredients in many beauty concoctions.Moreover, many amino acid derivatives are used as gentle detergents in cleansing applications or serve as emollients, antioxidants, chelating agents, etc.
Milk amino acids consist of highly soluble amino acids derived from milk proteins made by a combination of enzyme and acid hydrolysis. It contains all the essential amino acids and can be viewed as a balanced treatment for the skin and hair.
N-Capryloyl Lysine is an amino acid-based functional powder derived from L-lysine that forms hexagonal flat crystals. It is insoluble in water and oils and is a texture modifier in pressed powder foundations.
Octyldodecyl PCA is an ester octyl-dodecyl alcohol with L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid. Thanks to its bi-lipidic structure, it is very similar to natural skin ceramides and restructures the cutaneous barrier.
Palmitoyl glycine is a pearly delicate surfactant ingredient, a product of the condensation of palmitic acid with glycine amino acid. Derived from natural raw materials, it has unique characteristics:
PCA or Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid, naturally occurring in the skin, is an amino acid, a metabolite of Filaggrin. Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid is one of the most important NMFs (natural moisturizing factors) of the skin.
PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate is a cationic surfactant derived from L-Arginine (an amino acid), coconut oil fatty acid, ethyl alcohol, and PCA (a natural moisturizing factor: NMF). It is characterized as a conditioning agent mild to the skin and eyes.
PCA Glyceryl Oleate is an amino acid-based lipophilic nonionic surfactant derived from glycerin, oleic acid, and 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (PCA).
Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a ceramide-like waxy ester derived from glutamic acid. Like ceramides, it is well-solubilized in oils.
Phytosteryl/Decyltetradecyl Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate is an amino acid-based waxy emollient ester with a ceramide-like structure. It imparts a light touch and moistness to the skin and provides good spreadability and smoothness during application.
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a ceramide-like liquid ingredient derived from glutamic acid. Like ceramides, it exhibits good solubility in oils.
Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate is an anionic surfactant created from the amino acid glycine (a component of collagen) and botanically derived coconut fatty acid.
Potassium Olivoyl PCA is a vegetal softening lipo-amino acid as a fatty acid vehicle an emollient, and moisturizing agent, and a softening surfactant.
Proline is the main building block of dermal collagen. Due to its significant role in skin structure maintenance and easy absorbance proline is a prominent ingredient of anti-aging skin care formulations.
Sarcosine (N-methyl glycine) is a natural amino acid found in human body tissues and ubiquitous in raw food such as egg yolks, meat, vegetables, and legume seeds.
Sepicalm™ S is a lipo-aminoacid-based complex enriched minerals and vectorized essential amino acids for all-around protection against stress, a genuine feeling of well-being, and skin comfort.
Serine is a small-molecule nonessential amino acid, the precursor of Glycine, thus involved in the synthesis of collagen. It also a part of essential NMFs (natural moisturizing factors) preventing transepidermal water loss.
Silk Amino Acids is a mixture obtained from pure silk fibers by hydrolysis to their free amino acids under carefully controlled conditions. The principal amino acids in this ingredient are glycine, alanine, and serine.
Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate is an amino acid-based weakly acidic detergent derived from alanine and natural fatty acids. It is typically used in hair and body cleansing applications. It can be used as a foam booster when combined with other surfactants.
Sodium (disodium) Cocoyl Glutamate is a conjugate of coconut oil fatty acids and glutamic acid present in the collagen. It is a mild anionic surfactant and detergent used in cleansing formulations based on mostly botanical ingredients.
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate is a clear to slightly cloudy liquid, a primary mild surfactant in EO- and sulfate-free cleansing products. It is a readily biodegradable surfactant based on natural raw materials.
Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate is an acyl-amino acid type (acylglutamate) mild anionic surfactant used in soaps and cleaners. It is compatible with anionic and non-ionic surfactants used in cleansing applications and incompatible with cationic surfactants and other substances.
Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids is a sodium salt of acylated oat (Avena Sativa) amino acids, a functional surfactant from modified natural raw material. It is compatible with anionic and non-ionic surfactants used in soaps and cleansing applications.
Sodium PCA is contained abundantly in the skin and plays the role of a "natural moisturizing factor" (NMF) ingredient. It is extremely hygroscopic and imparts a pleasant moist feeling to skin and hair.
Sodium stearoyl glutamate is derived from L-Glutamic acid and natural fatty acid (stearoyl acid), an anionic surfactant with a pH similar to human skin
Spirulina Amino Acids is an amino acid complex derived by the hydrolyzation of protein from Spirulina platensis cyanobacterium.
TEA-Lauroyl Collagen Amino Acids is a clear to slightly hazy, amber liquid with a mild characteristic odor. It is considered a "foaming protein" with conditioning properties. It is a mild and water-soluble foaming surfactant based on collagen amino acids.
Tetrasodium EDTA is a sodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (diamine amino acid), a widely used chelating agent against metal ions.
Sulfur and its derivatives are already well-established ingredients in preparations for the treatment of seborrhea and excess oil.
Tranexamic acid is an amino acid that is considered an analog of lysine. It is widely used in medicine as a hemostatic agent (stops or prevents bleeding) that inhibits the activation of the active site of plasmin.